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A Doge's Life at St. Regis Venice San Clemente Palace

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This story appears in the June 28, 2015 issue of ForbesLife. Subscribe

As soon as you cross the Venetian Lagoon in your private water taxi and set foot on the Isola di San Clemente, the island's 15 acres of manicured lawns and stately linden, elm and cypress trees leave no doubt that you have truly arrived in La Serenissima. Since 1131, monks, soldiers and an army of stray cats have occupied the church and monastery there, so perhaps it was time for St. Regis to take over. Its $28 million renovation of the San Clemente Palace complex retains the secluded courtyards among the 191 rooms. But with all that open island space you'll find plenty of spots to order a sunset cocktail as you gaze at the celebrated Lido on one side of the water and St. Mark's Square on the other.

You can enjoy the property's signature Lagoon Mary--with flavors of basil, cinnamon, cardamom and a splash of Tabasco sauce, it's a Mediterranean take on a bloody classic--on the Garden Terrace or at La Dolce pool as you retire on a canopied daybed. If you dine alfresco at Acquerello Restaurant, you'll be looking right at the San Clemente Church's rich Renaissance facade, and perhaps you'll get a chance to raise a toast to a pair of newlyweds. And be sure to take a peek inside the church or you'll miss splendid bronze reliefs and magnificent frescoes on the vaulted ceiling. After all, you may need to atone for your palace indulgences.